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| The 12th-century Cathedral of St Maurice, Angers |
The historic city of Angers lies around 180 miles southwest of Paris – just over an hour and a half’s journey on the TGV, making it a feasible destination for a long weekend.
FRIDAY
Afternoon
The modern train station is on the edge of the compact city centre and within walking distance of several of the city’s main hotels.
An afternoon stroll through the city centre is a pleasant experience with sights to see including the 12th-century Cathedral of St Maurice; the 15th-century Maison d’Adam, with its occasionally saucy medieval carvings, and the Romanesque church of St Martin, in whose basement the remains of a Roman street can be seen – complete with cart tracks.
Angers is also the home of Cointreau, so a glass of the orange liqueur on ice provides a suitably regional aperitif.
Dinner
The Hotel Anjou is a pleasant three-star property on the central boulevard Marechal Foch, but its restaurant (the Salamander), set in a room redolent with old world charm, is a revelation. Service is impeccable and the food is excellent. Local specialities include fish and meat dishes, an outstanding cheese board and cremet d'Anjou, a local dessert made with cheese, whisked egg whites and cream.
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| This way for the Apocalypse at Angers’ castle |
SATURDAY
Morning
In the Middle Ages, Angers, close to the confluence of the rivers Maine and Loire, was of strategic importance to the warring English and French.
The city’s impressive castle, with its massive turrets, is testament to those times.
Today, visitors can walk the battlements and enjoy views over the city and the scents of a lofty herb garden – whose plants are those used by the herbalists of former centuries.
The main attraction, though, has to be the Apocalypse tapestry. Commissioned in 1373 by Louis, duke of Anjou, this is on show in a crepuscular gallery space within the fortifications. During the French Revolution it was cut up and scattered and it is a near-miracle that so much of it survives today.
Lunch
A mere spear-throw from the castle is Villa Toussaint. A French-Asian fusion restaurant, offering generous portions of dishes than combine the Orient with the Loire region. Main courses cost from €13 to €25.
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| No holds barred at the Galerie David d’Angers |
Afternoon
Almost next door, in the former Abbey Toussaint, is the Galerie David d’Angers. On show are copies and originals of the 19th-century sculptor’s magnificently evocative works. Many of these depict figures and scenes from the Revolutionary and Napoleonic Wars – through which the artist lived.
Cross the river to the Hôpital St Jean. The oldest hospital in France, this was one of several built on the orders of English king Henry II as part of his penance for the murder of Thomas Beckett. Inside, its delicate pillars pay tribute to the skills of medieval masons and its walls display the tapestry Le Chant du Monde by Jean Lurcat – a kind of modern-day version of the Apocalypse.
Dinner
Mets et Vins Plaisirs at 44 Boulevard Ayrault has plenty of interesting dishes on its menu, from a foie gras burger to lobster risotto. The restaurant prides itself on its wine list. It’s a popular place, though, and service can be on the slow side.
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| Spices on sale at Angers’ market |
SUNDAY
Join the massed ranks of locals at the fruit and vegetable market than spreads out around the eastern end of Boulevard Marechal Foch. Cross the road and there is also a bric-a-brac market selling everything from old books, to prints, to toy soldiers in Napoleonic finery.
Lunch
Brasserie de la Gare. It pays to book ahead because the brasserie is deservedly popular with locals. The entrecote béarnaise, avec frites, certainly does the job for Sunday lunch. From here, you’re well placed to stroll across the road and the afternoon train back to Paris and beyond.
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