The best coffee houses in Vienna

If you were there, it may have seemed that there were few benefits to be found in the Turkish siege of Vienna. 

As historians will remember, the episode marked the high water mark of the Islamic offensive in Europe, with the Turks finally forced to retreat in 1683.

Among the things the attackers left behind, so the story goes, were some sacks of coffee. These were discovered by a group of defenders who, presuming they were camel feed, were preparing to burn them when one of their number, better travelled and more entrepreneurial than the rest, realised what they were.

Within 100 years the drink not only had the Viennese in its thrawl, a veritable coffee house culture had emerged, with 800 premises where people could discuss the events of the day while imbibing something warm and stimulating.

By the late 19th century, the city had become famed for its coffee houses and they were immortalised by writers such as Stephan Zweig, who described them as ‘an institution of a special kind… a sort of democratic club for discussion, writing, and playing cards’.

Today, amid a plethora of places serving coffee, there are around 150 traditional coffee houses in Vienna, recognisable by their black-clad waiters and classic décor of wooden floors, marble-topped tables and hum of conversation.

Café Central
The Central is perhaps the most famous of Vienna’s coffee houses and, for that reason, it is something of a magnet for tourists.

That said, though, it can’t be easily left off any list of recommendations.

In the early years of the 20th century this was a place artists and writers would meet and discuss their hopes and ideas. One of them, in a sense, is still here – a papier maché depiction of the poet Peter Altenberg can be found at his favourite table.

Leon Trotsky was certainly a patron and is reputed to have planned the Russian Revolution within these walls.

Central’s large columned hall was painstakingly restored in 1986 and today it can feel as if you are stepping back in time.

Café Hawelka
Hawelka is another with a strong literary heritage. This atmospheric little place was a haunt of the writer Hans Weigel, who was friends with the owners, Leopold and Josefine Hawelka.

Time has marched on, and it is now the Hawelka’s grandchildren who run the place. However, the tradition of serving of fresh baked Buchteln (a bohemian specialty) every day at 10 pm has endured.

In the 1950s and 1960s the Hawelka was a magnet for Vienna’s radicals and Bohemians and plenty of international figures dropped by as well – such as Andy Warhol and Arthur Miller.

Today, it is another that can be crowded, so the best time to visit may be as soon as it opens.

Griensteidl
Griensteidl has an enviably central location and for that reason often provides succour to the footsore on the tourist trail. Located close to the Hofburg and St Michael’s Church, it is given a particularly charming ambience by the sound of hooves as horse-drawn carriages pass by.

Schwarzenburg
There is something of the Establishment about the Schwarzenburg during the day, as well-heeled business types use it to do deals and talk money.

Handy for both the Musikverein and the Konzerthaus it can prove a handy bolthole either before or after a performance. Famed for its cakes and food, in the evening it echoes to the sound of a violin, who works his way through a repertoire of suitably Viennese tunes.

Mozart
Café Mozart can trace its history back to 1794, although the current building is a relative newcomer at around 90 years old.

This is reputedly where British writer Graham Greene worked on his screenplay for the film version of his novel The Third Man – set against the backdrop of Vienna in the years immediately following World War II – and the café makes a brief appearance in the film.

Green fans can even indulge themselves in a ‘Third Man breakfast’ if they feel particularly inspired. With its chandeliers, wood paneling, mirrors and comfortable chairs it is a classic of its genre.

Sacher
With its russet-coloured walls, Old Master paintings and red upholstery, there is more than a hint of the Habsburg Empire about the Sacher.

One almost expects Emperor Franz Joseph to come clanking in and ask for his favourite table.

As well as providing magnificent surroundings, the café is justifiably famous for its cakes – in particular the rich, chocolate gateau with just a soupcon of apricot jam to which it gave its name.

Sachertorte was first baked in 1832 and its recipe remains a closely guarded secret – and this is the place to sample the real thing.

Café Drechsler 
Drechsler demonstrates a contemporary version of the traditional coffee house. It first opened for business in 1919 and for the over 80 years trod the traditional route. In 2007 it was refurbished under the direction of British architect Sir Terence Conran, whose aim was to create a modern classic.

What to ask for in a Vienna coffee shop 
Orson Wells, who was cast in The Third Man, set in Vienna, once said: ‘A Vienna café is the only place where you can sit unmolested for eight hours or longer, drink a single cup of coffee, and still be treated like a king.’

However, ordering just ‘a cup of coffee’ will not do, especially as Vienna’s waiters can be just a fraction frosty in their approach. Below are 10 options for the coffee lover.

1. Schwarzer or Mokka
(Small) strong black coffee without milk

2. Kleiner/Grosser Brauner
Black coffee with cream, small or large cup

3. Verlängerter
Kleiner Schwarzer or Brauner, ‘lengthened’ with hot water.

4. Melange
Mokka ‘lengthened’ by a shot of hot water, with steamed milk and milk foam

5. Kapuziner
Small black coffee with a small amount of cream

6. Franziskaner
Melange topped with whipped cream

7. Einspänner
Large Mokka in a glass with lots of whipped cream

8. Fiaker
Mokka in a glass with a shot of rum

9. Wiener Eiskaffee
Cold coffee with vanilla ice cream and whipped cream

10. Türkischer
Turkish-style coffee – strong and thicker.