Sunday 22 July 2012

Live like a duke at Château de Brissac, Angers



‘These aren’t our greatest tapestries,’ says the Duchess de Brissac, indicating two large, intricate and, frankly, priceless-looking creations on a drawing-room wall. ‘They aren’t actually originals. But they do well here.’

She’s absolutely right. The room looks as though it could be expecting the Three Musketeers to walk in at any moment and start planning how best to thwart the latest dastardly plans of Cardinal Richelieu.

In fact, the whole Château de Brissac is redolent with that same atmosphere. Located near Angers, in the Loire region of France, with huge grounds and dramatic turrets it looks a lot like a storybook castle.
The visitor steps through its large and impressive doors to be greeted by, among other things, a wall-mounted boar’s head, an array of medieval-style weaponry and a sedan chair that was once used to ferry members of the de Brissac family to their appointments.

The château, which is said to be the tallest in France and contains an impressive 204 rooms, was acquired by the de Brissac family in 1502. The current Duke is the 13th of his line to hold the title.

Antiques, artworks and family memorabilia are everywhere. In a downstairs salon there are numerous photographs of celebrity visitors as well as one that shows the Duchess flanked by hundreds of French soldiers. 

She explains that she is honorary colonel-in-chief of the local regiment of engineers. ‘So now I have 1,300 godsons,’ she says.
As if the Three Musketeers could appear at any minute…

Paintings on the walls depict numerous de Brissacs – many of whom played important roles in French history. As might perhaps be expected, some also met sticky ends.

Louis Hercule Timoleon de Brissac, for example, was unfortunate enough to be caught at the palace of Versailles when it was stormed by a mob during the French revolution in 1792 – with fatal consequences for him.

Another ancestor, Roland de Cosse – father of the 11th Duke – died during the Franco-Prussian war of 1871. His wife, Jeanne-Marie Say, was an enthusiastic amateur singer and created her very own theatre on one of the château’s upper levels. Here, she would perform to a packed house of friends and family, although accounts of her ability vary.

Guests can sample all of the above at their leisure as guests. The chateau has four guest rooms, each decorated in keeping with such a historical building. 

In the Chambre des Chasses, for example, there are 17th century tapestries that are packed with wildlife – from leopards, to stags, to birds.

‘When I ask people who stay here whether they’ve slept well, they often say they’ve stayed up counting all the different types of creatures,’ adds the Duchess.

The Facts
The Château de Brissac is in the department of Maine and Loire near the city of Angers.

As well as being the home of the de Brissac family, it has two rooms and two suites available to guests. 
Each of these has its own theme linked to an aspect of the building’s history. Guests can chose from Le Chamber Mortemart, Le Chambre des Chasses, La Suite du Marquis and La Suite des Dames.



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