‘These aren’t our greatest tapestries,’
says the Duchess de Brissac, indicating two large, intricate and, frankly,
priceless-looking creations on a drawing-room wall. ‘They aren’t actually
originals. But they do well here.’
She’s absolutely right. The room looks as
though it could be expecting the Three Musketeers to walk in at any moment and
start planning how best to thwart the latest dastardly plans of Cardinal
Richelieu.
In fact, the whole Château de Brissac is
redolent with that same atmosphere. Located near Angers, in the Loire region of
France, with huge grounds and dramatic turrets it looks a lot like a storybook
castle.
The château, which is said to be the
tallest in France and contains an impressive 204 rooms, was acquired by the de
Brissac family in 1502. The current Duke is the 13th of his line to hold the
title.
Antiques, artworks and family memorabilia
are everywhere. In a downstairs salon there are numerous photographs of
celebrity visitors as well as one that shows the Duchess flanked by hundreds of
French soldiers.
She explains that she is honorary colonel-in-chief of the local
regiment of engineers. ‘So now I have 1,300 godsons,’ she says.
As if the Three Musketeers could appear at any minute… |
Paintings on the walls depict numerous de
Brissacs – many of whom played important roles in French history. As might
perhaps be expected, some also met sticky ends.
Louis Hercule Timoleon de Brissac, for
example, was unfortunate enough to be caught at the palace of Versailles when
it was stormed by a mob during the French revolution in 1792 – with fatal
consequences for him.
Another ancestor, Roland de Cosse – father
of the 11th Duke – died during the Franco-Prussian war of 1871. His wife,
Jeanne-Marie Say, was an enthusiastic amateur singer and created her very own
theatre on one of the château’s upper levels. Here, she would perform to a
packed house of friends and family, although accounts of her ability vary.
Guests can sample all of the above at their
leisure as guests. The chateau has four guest rooms, each decorated in keeping
with such a historical building.
In the Chambre des Chasses, for example, there
are 17th century tapestries that are packed with wildlife – from leopards, to
stags, to birds.
‘When I ask people who stay here whether
they’ve slept well, they often say they’ve stayed up counting all the different
types of creatures,’ adds the Duchess.
The Facts
The Château de Brissac is in the department
of Maine and Loire near the city of Angers.
As well as being the home of the de Brissac
family, it has two rooms and two suites available to guests.
Each of these has its own theme linked
to an aspect of the building’s history. Guests can chose from Le Chamber Mortemart, Le
Chambre des Chasses, La Suite du Marquis and La Suite des Dames.
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